Funny Valentine

During my return to Tehran something I noticed, that I forgot to mention before: Several people seemed drunk not only entering Tehran but also leaving. And when it comes to airport activities, such as waiting in line or loading baggage through security for example, all male chivalry is flushed down the toilet.

Speaking of toilet-flushing and male chivalry...

1. I have to get used to NOT flushing toilet paper, once again (thanks to Tehran's shady to non-existent plumbing system. It's great for saving trees though.)

And 2. I got back to Tehran just in time for Valentine's Day! The romantic holiday named after 2 Christian Martyrs called Valentine. What's this got to do with Iran you might ask?

Downtown, on the famous Karim Khan Street all the card and gift shops were transformed into flashy red showcases, displaying all sorts of over-sized plush Valentine goodies: Boxes and Bears, and other strange pudgy creatures.

I wonder what the 'X' means? A punching bag?

In the same area, Coffee Shops were overflowing with couples, many of them wearing red. Traffic was even worse than the usual Thursday night.

Feeling a bit of post-Ashura blues?...Valentine's is here! And with Nowruz just around the corner, it's a jam packed season.

Valentine's Day has been gaining popularity in Iran over the past years, although there have been attempts to ban it or curb its popularity, especially by giving the shops selling Valentine's products a hard time. One government official even suggested keeping the tradition but switching the day to the birthday of Fatima (I think it was her?). This didn't happen, and even this year the stores were bustling with squishy red hearts, chocolates and kissing bears.

Proof that Iranians love to love.

Yes, they really love to love.

And they are even safe about it (click here)

That poster is actually hanging, for all to see, outside a pharmacy near my house. When I passed by it, I literally froze...and had to backtrack. In Persian it says something like: "Femore gel, for the woman's sexual inability." Perhaps this is proof that North Tehran is looking more and more like California.

It may be about love, but Valentine's Day is also about buying. The shops were packed, and for the first time I saw Iranians queuing up. Outside a store, as most of them are too tiny for these kinds of crowds. The message I picked up seemed to be, bigger is better. Not only the stuffed animals, but also cards, boxes, bags stuffed with confetti and shiny tissue were size extra large. Alas...consumerism wins the battle on this day (and most days), in all it's curious ways.

Competitive street peddler: Would you like a tooth or a donkey on the moon?

For more on V Day, check out this documentary a friend of mine made a couple years ago: "Valentine's Day in Iran"

In the evening the Brazilian Embassy hosted local band 127 for a rare, and cozy, live concert. The band unofficially released their new album: Khal Punk. The word "Khal" comes from "Khaltoo" which is a genre of very old Iranian pop music.

All in all it was a beautiful first V day in Tehran. Sorry this post is pretty crappy...hope you enjoy the photos at least :)

Love, Neenee

See more photos from the day here:

Valentine's Day in Tehran