Tochal Mountain

In the north of the city, you can take a gondola (telekabin) 3740 meters straight into the heart of Tochal mountain peak, of the Alborz mountain range--who's breathtaking view can be enjoyed from various parts of Tehran. So far I haven't been able to adequately explain in words the happiness I felt here...I will try now.

In 45 minutes we were transported from the smoggy chaos of the city to the most clean, crisp nature I've ever experienced, and the highest altitude I've ever walked upon.

leaving Tehran

Unaccustomed to the altitude we only walk 10-20 steps at a time, but each time I look up, and each time I breath in, I consume such an amazing sensation. High on fresh air, I cannot stop smiling:"Nisham baz bood" :) I want to hug everyone I see, but the joy is so thick that our eye contact and polite greetings feel equivalent to hugs.

There is a Persian word 'safah' -which everyone stresses the importance, and insists there is no adequate translation. It is something like pleasure or enjoyment, but more. It is used as a verb or an adjective. 'Safah' is what happens here, in 'kooh'--the mountain.

A friend asked me recently if I ever was so happy that if I died, at that particular moment I would be OK with it. This moment was something like that. Pure euphoria, and I felt this positive energy from everyone up there. I envied the men who worked there, who smiled and reminded us to get our free tea and cake, which comes with the ticket. Everyone had such a pleasant disposition...as if the clogged turmoil down there didn't exist.

The mountains are a very important aspect of Tehran lives. Some people go everyday, and most go at least once a week. Those who have more time hike to various points. Other hikes begin at different points-and the paths are dotted with restaurants and cafes where the high heeled, perfumed Tehranis stop for tea, gossip and people-watching. I will write more about these later...



We saw this peaceful old man, slowly walking up, from our cabin. Later, we met him at the top. He, like many others, comes for the hike every Thursday (Thursday and Friday is weekend here). On a side note, I have never loved old men like I do in Iran. I may be biased, having had 2 charming Iranian grandfathers...either way, I can't help with the smiles and heartfelt sighs when I see an old man here. The ones I speak of have a confident yet calm pace in life, a slouched yet elegant posture. He fondles prayer beads in hands clasped behind his back, or lightly walks up the mountain while singing a sad old melody, or recites his nostalgia with tears twinkling in wrinkled eyes. No wonder Iranians are so romantic!!



It is low season and not too crowded which is nice-summer and winter find queues of skiers and snowboarders snaking out the doors. The gondola lift was built by the Swiss in the 70s. On the other side of the Alborz lies the Caspian Sea. The Shah's wild plan at the time was to build another lift on the other side of the mountains rising up from the seaside, and a 3rd one connecting the 2 pistes. The far-fetched dream was that people would be able to pack their backpack with swimsuit and towel, and arrive to the Caspian in a couple hours, all via telekabin!

Well that didn't happen, exactly. The new government did have a lift built on the other side, but the connecting lift would not be such an easy affair.

When we came down we went straight to "Dizy Sarah" -the downtown 'dizy' place. Dizy is traditionally the poor worker's food, but most Iranians love it. A concoction of fatty meat, beans, potatos, tomatoes, onions and spices cooked for hours in a clay pot over a fire, first you have the soup with pieces of bread shredded inside...then you mash the dizy to a pulp and enjoy with fresh herbs, bread and sour yogurt drink. An inquisitive little boy with a soft dusty face and slanted eyes sat right next to me, chewing banana flavored bubble gum. Curious about me, a newcomer speaking a foreign language. He was so incredibly sweet. Now, I could definitely die a happy woman...although I wouldn't mind sharing these experiences with you people sometime in the future.

Soon winter will arrive and a fresh blanket of snow, the views of Alborz will be even more impressive.

Anyhow, it seems I have a new hobby! And it also seems Iran is as romantic and fantastic as I had constructed in my mind's files of images, pictures and stories. Everything is so unfamiliar yet so familiar. Like a continuous deja vu...the kind when you ask yourself--am I nuts?...or is it really possible?

Neenee in Tochal

P.S. Did you know:

-About half of Iran is covered with mountains

-When people, especially men, walk with their hands clasped behind their backs, this evolved from mountain walking (or so I've heard??)

-The highest peak in Iran is Damavand (5671m) who is permanently snowcapped, and can be seen from Tehran on a clear day...

-Not only is it the best natural insulator...Human Hair is also one of the strongest receptor for cosmic energy!

:)